After final word, here comesTMA 2...

So, to all who may concern :)...

Here, on this blog, you can find some parts of our memories from the first Mountain Academy... I hope, soon, I will read some of your memories ;)... Go ahead & good luck with application!

Final Word

Few months ago, The Mountain Academy has ended. Maybe we will see again some day, or maybe not. The truth is, human mind is capable to forget some details, as names or faces, so I decided to make a short "memory freeze".

Result is this collage... Enjoy!

first mountain academy revival: psicobloc

This first revival of mountain academy was crowded (!): the only member of the team who accepted Particia’s invitation to go to Mallorca was me.
In these few days of climbing I discovered the psicobloc (or deep water solo), and after experiencing the Mecca of psicobloc I can say that this is an amazing kind of climbing.
No rope, no harness, no Quickdraw, only climbing shoes, swimming suit and mental power. The safe it ensured by the sea, and at every jump you are surprised to experience how soft is the water, even if you fall exactly on your back (I have done that!). But the unconscious fear shows up when you have some key movements at the end of the pitch and you are far from the water, in this case you turn off your mind and hope not to fall; because when you are more than 10 meters high with only climbing shoes end bathing costume you are a little impressed.
The climbing it is never very delicate but rather animal, big and good hooks in roofs and overhangs, you need a lot of power, the problem is when you lose the power but with the people encouraging you, you continue climbing up increasing the distance from the water, and the length of the jump.
Thanks to Patricia for the hospitality and I hope that next year the MAC team will be more represented.

Mallorca Deep Water Soloing/Psicobloc 2009

Tito and me in front of "Es Pontas"

Porto Cristo "Cova del Diablo"

Harald in "Attack of the spindly killer fish" in the Virgine Area, Cala Sa Nau

Cala Des Moro

Porto Colom

Cala Barques Sector "Sa Cova"

Cals Barquez Sector"Metrosexual"

Cala Barquez Sektor Sa Cova, "Tower of Power"


Michael in "Hercules", Sector Snatch in Cala Barquez

A turquoise warm sea, sharp pockets and tufas in orange-brown, soft sand and a mild breeze, iron muscle-packed screaming climbers...Yes, we are situated on Mallorca’s east cost, the place to be for psicoblocers.

Last year my first contact with this kind of climbing started. Motivated through hundreds of pictures in magazines and videos we slipped in a new adventure not knowing of this special virus called “flinar” (a spanish word for pushing yourself even further when you are scared shitless). This Deep Water Soloing virus comes over you once you tried your first steps in incredible steep overhanging psicibloc terrain over the sea.

This year 3 weeks should be enough to assuage the appetite of crazy routes and to satisfy my climbing ambitions. But I was wrong. You can’t stop, the virus starts to change in a pandemic. Next year for sure I will book 4 weeks, at the end I will probably stay forever...

So far, but what is this motivation build of? Why do thousands of climbers from all over the world visit this little island in Mediterranean sea? I’m still trying to find an answer. An explanation could be the pureness of Deep Water Soloing. A pair of old climbing shoes and liqid chalk and the show can go on. It’s only your ability in rock and the rock itself. The struggle with your mind, with your physical fitness, the withstanding against fear of falling, your pumped arms, just going forward even if you feel totally exhausted and in case of fall you don’t die. In total you have to find the balance between climbing ability and the seriousness of a fall but you can really push your limits. There doesn’t exist checking out of any routes, testing holds and waiting for perfect grip conditions, there is no need for you to trust in equipment, belaying partners or shit rock, you simply trust in yourself, your mental and physical strength and the ability to read the rock. Anyway you develop a better sense for climbing movement, I call it movement intelligence.

The social aspect is another point why psicobloc is my favorible sport, it remembers me on bouldering. DWS brings people together, not only for motivating scared climbers in hard sections. You can feel the community, entusiastic people with different background but same intention: sharing time and practise leisure activity they love the most: pure climbing. It’s not about grades, who sent which route ot who did the hardest one;it’s about fun and the community itself, the xchange between cultures, beliefs and attitudes in a fantastic paradise-like surrounding. Beach 4 (it remembers on Camp 4 in Yosemite) in Cala Barquez is one of this places where you can experience what I tried to describe. It’s not an official campsite, but it’s tolerated to camp there among the pines on the beach. Lot’s of people we have met last year we met this year again. Like an unwritten law psicobloc fans pilgrim to Cala Barquez in September the centre of atrraction. I hope that this little paradise will be treatened politely and with respect to nature that thousands of people more can experience the sense of climbing.

At the end of the climbing trip we had the luck to meet Miquel Riera, the god father of Mallorcan psicobloc. On a cloudy wet day Porto Colom with its steep terrain and big juggy roofs offered the best oppurtunity for climbing. Normally you don't go climbing on such day, you just stay in bed and read a book, but this day contained the most satisfaction. With the intention simply have a look for the rock, we started in wet slippery roofs. But as the time went by we developed big motivation and tried really hard with spectacular falls and crazy detonations into the water. Also Miquel started for a scary route with the crux in a roof in 15 meters hight. As he was about to fall our screams motivated him to push hisself to the limit although the conditions were the worst you can imagine. This example showes me one more time that the right entusiasm and motivation is the stuff perfect days are made of.

For next year I hope all Mountain Academy team members, guides and athletes will join us in Mallorca. The perfect place to live our dream!

Long summer - still student

Hmm... Yeap - two months passed from Champs, and me still didn't finish with one last exam. Wonder why? Let's analize...

Was July. Just after arrive from snowy Mont Blanc chain, my friends called me for rocky faces in Julian Alps. Peak's name is Špik, and route was very obvious - Direct, V+ 900m. This route has very important history in slovenian mountaineering - it was opened in far away 1926., by miss Mira Debelakova, and with this route, she entered in famous London Alpine Club...

It’s my favourite in this pyramid peak, since it is always very interesting to climb route opened by a lady...

Aproaching in late evening, after 7 hours of driving at mostly rainy day. Forecast predict good weather for tommorow... It would be a shame to spend so many hours in car, pass few borders, without climbing anything.

There is very nice bivouac at the bottom of Spik – nicest I ever seen, so 2 hours of walking to it, is very worthwhile.

A big route - I must admit, at few places I had in my mind - If I am in 1926, where would I pass... In general, after a half, when we changed a leading position ;), it was more easier... But!My previous rock climbing was in perfect yellow granite of Chamonix, and here rock is not so solid, it was hardest thing - to adapt on rock in mental way!

Dieadar at Direct route, Spik

At the top, I was happy, but, truetly... I expected more estetic climbing... Never mind, it will be now estetic going down-1600 m of descent and driving back home, since there are people who are working tommorow!

Was July. Few sunny days on Makarska riviera - Adriatic coast... Kayak - new favorite activity ;)

Was last days of July. My boyfriend got some free days from fresh job ;), so we packed a gear... Hm, a lot of gear (thanx to TMA :), since our plan was - we will do some sport climbing... and maybe some multipitch... and maybe some alpine... Luckily - we left our skies back home ;), and start very long way to Dolomite...

Mobile home - Wander of nature under walls of Tofana

And as we planned – sport climbing at Tolmezzo, just to break full driving day, and continue to Cortina D’Ampezzo... Next few days we spent at lovely Cinque Torre – needles not higher than 100 meteres, but very good start for vertical world of Dolomites! Was that grade 3 or 7 – it’s vertical – just matter of hold sizes ;)...

Cinque Torre

Then we changed this area, for Tofana face, where we climed more commiting route – Constantin-Ghedini, which has very nice line on the arete... Vertical! I don’t know have I ever climb so exposed big faces, but almost all the time I saw other parties beneath us, on the wall.

Constantin-Ghedini, Tofana

So many lovely place, so little time...

Next stop was famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Historical places, with extraordinary sights... We stayed there just for one day, (parking is not so cheap) and we climbed maybe not so hard route, but again, as all routes we chose – very classy J - Preuss crack at Picolissima! I remember then, Wilder Kaiser, and more of pioneers of „munich school“... And oh - boy... These people were really extraordinary, even for today.

Unlike Preuss, we descent on Dulfer couloar, but while we were climbing that huge chimney, we were discusing how crazy was Paul Preuss, when he downclimb every route he climbed, so as this! And there, I saw some routes opened by our guide from The Mountain Academy – Kurt Astner... He is definitly truely successor of mentioned pioneers!

Preuss crack, Cima Picolissima

Driving, driving... It was time for „new area“ even for Sinisa(for me, all these was new, but he was already here last summer, while I was at Wilder Kaiser). Val Gardena – valley high up in south Tyrol! Before this trip, we didn’t know lot of thing about Gardena(at the end, we can’t know everything ;), and now, I’m thinking of selling some organ at black market :), and go there for improve skiing! For climbing – was interesting ;). We climbed at Sella, and conclusion is - Very crowded, very crowded, very polished... I saw more than 15 people in 300meters route! Luckily, we were almost alone in III Torre Sella, Vinatzer route. All routes are very classic, and no wonder why are tyrolean people great climbers...

Sella - almost all Torres

And, from Sella Pass... You can see HER ;). Just look to south, where sun tries to hide away until next day...Dream of this trip. People gave her different names, but all mean same – Regina, Queen, Marmolada!

Marmolada

To be, or not to be? We moved from monden Gardena to lovely campsite at Malga Ciapela, where birds singing in toailets, really!Weather was not so great last days(since we arrived to Italy J ), it was raining every day – it was just matter of quantity... And we were not sure is it good time to go to South face of Marmolada. But, in 2-3 days we should be back in Belgrade...

Decided to go to Refuge Falier... It was so cloudy, we saw face only at few moments, enough to realise it’s huge ;). Waking up early in the morning, poor(?!) breakfast in hut, and sea of clouds beneath us, in valley. Similiar situation was above us, we decided to go more near the rock, at the enter of our route - Don Quixote. Weather forecast was ok for that day, until afternoon, when it should start bad weather. This time, unlike in Aig. Du Diablo, I wasn’t with lot of guides, who can help me by making their own decision in moments like this. Just Sinisa and me, at the bottom of south face of Marmolada.

Will weather be really better with the time, or this cloud will stay here forever?!

My thoughts at that time were – Ok, haven’t seen the whole route while we approaching, haven’t seen either that big ledge, haven’t seen far then 50 meteres above me... Enough HAVEN’T for brand new mountain! Sinisa had more faith in forecast...

We found the enter, and then we notice more people are coming in our direction. Ok, we are not the only ones, it can have some good sides...To go, or not? Hm, at least first part of the route is not so hard, and in case of „not better“ forecast, we can maybe retreat? I never climbed unknown rock in fog, and my (leading) part of the route was first half, up to big ledge.

I was quite a nervous at the start, yet 2 more parties were here, with us, and all time I checked at topo, it looked we are on very good way. Austrian party passed us very fast, and they were crazy – noise&fast people ;), and with the polish people we stayed up to top.

On the beginnig...With lot of ropes...

Big ledge. Still fog, but with prediction it will end up soon ;)...

"Pocket wall"

Now, it’s starting true climbing! Doesn’t go under grade 5 up to the end, even in some guidebooks says different... Again, vertical world in full color! Sinisa is progressing quite good, and me – catch the moment to make some photos ;).

It’s all about endurance here... Crux – very well protected, and from this moment, clouds dissapeared, we saw nice blue sky and never ending rock face ;).

Unfortunatly, haven’t see most famous route here – Durch den Fisch,9-, which was freesoloed by very young Hansjörg Auer. Believe me – I had strange feeling in my stomach, just when I saw his poster in refuge...

16h. Last gondole is passing by... And we are on the top! Like true climbers ;) we are the only ones who are going down by glacier(not by cable car ;), but it’s great weather, we are running on snow, so it’s cool...

When I spoke with Tito, he said – „ I climbed just Don Quixote in Marmolada, but you know, it’s nothing...“ Comparing with other routes, it is one of the easiest, but it’s far away of nothing! At least for me ;)... While we walking down, Sinisa was satisfied, and start speaking about Tiempo Moderne... Me... Happy and quite ;)!

Ps.We ate very good carbonara at Passo Fedeia, for all „cable car“ money ;)... And back far away to the east...

August. Start studying tommorow... Just to finish with this chapter in guidebook. Just to become pro- at bicy ;).

September. I started. Exam soon. Just to finish this article. And one about Du Diable. And...

Mhhh Gusto...

Chamonix 09:
Hm, where to start... maybe at the end. Oh yeah, it was a massive party! We celebrated the whole Mountain Academy adventure at the most awesome bar in Chamonix with a delicious buffet and booze; lots of booze. Everyone danced till the break of dawn and we watched Bertrand’s movies and David’s pictures from the academy on a big screen…
All great memories when you see this overwhelming stuff!
From sport climbing in Austria to ice climbing in la Argentiere; from ski mountaineering on the Mount Blanc Massive to trad climbing in Morocco…
Yes, we did a lot, we learned a lot and we collected unique experiences.
As well in this last stage at Chamonix:
One day, better to say one early morning, Jerome and I took the first cable car to reach Aiguilles du Midi. Our mission that day: an about 200m long icey gully which ends on the half way of the Cosmique ridge.
And the best was that you don’t have any meter of approach, because exactly when you exit the Midi station you start abseiling down to reach the starting point of the climb. Which is funny, because two third of all people who arrive with the cable car are Japanese. Japanese who have never been in the mountains before and who are dressed up like being on the beach, with sandals and short tops. And we, well, we were equipped for any kind of weather change and to climb in ice… Big boots, gore-tex wear, even a down jacket, a helmet and goggles. That was a funny picture…
However, we started to rappel and just after the first one you really feel like being in high mountains, in a wild terrain: Once in a wile rock and snowfall or a cold wind breeze.
Nice, I like ;-) . And then the climb…Ahh it was simply great and in perfect ice conditions. A narrow, quite steep line, very various to protect; once we set ice screws, once a nut or a friend. That’s what it makes so interesting for me. Every part was different to climb and to protect .
Pitch after pitch led us towards the sunny Cosmique ridge, which then led us back to our starting point, the Aiguilles du Midi station.
That’s fast food climbing, which suited perfectly this day, because Jerome and I had to leave for one day the academy, Jerome to be at a meeting and I, to write my final exam at school.
And so the story ends…for this time, but we meet and climb again! That is for sure!!!!
Cheers…

The last one, the best one

How can I writhe in a few words all our feeling?

After a long wait in the airport finally it seems somebody is still alive. In fact I started to speak about the taxi bus who drives from Geneva to Chamonix because nobody is here, nobody is in the phone… and maybe my friends forget I’m here!

TMA again but this is the last one, what a pitty! Fred thinks I’m kidding when I suggest him if its possible to continue. Well, anyway we have to give the others the opportunity to live in The Mountain Academy.

When we arrive to the camping there is most of the team. It’s good to meet all the people again, and also to meet new ones, Fred from Chamonix and Simon from Zermatt. But the best is to be here, in “the Meca” of alpinism. Chamonix, yeah!

We start with the Hyper classic “Frison Roche”. My references about this route came from my girlfriend who climbed it some years ago. It’s a wonderful route who climbs the 200 meteres wall of “le Brevent”, a great line opened not many years ago. The ambience is superb, we are involved with the fog and it seems Patagonia.

We have a very good description here.




The next step goes to discover the old ice in a very deep unknow glacier, I can’t say more things, we have to keep a little bit safe the secrets of The Mountain Academy…



We continue with the “Triangle du Tacul” climbing one beautiful thin white line on the left of “Goulotte cheré” to finish, the day after, by the “Cosmiques” arête. I have been here before 7 times but after this moment I have never climbed the “Cosmiques” before. So for me it’s incredible to find artificial holes for crampons made by… who knows? Anyway, we discover why is one of the most famous ridges in the Alps. Simply magnificent.





Good info here.

One more step goes to the “Albert Premier” hut and the Forbes ridge, a beautiful way to reach the top of the Chardonnet. It’s a special ascent, more special if you think you are following the Rebuffat’s selection and if you can join with some of your friends in the summit. In the descend some stupid “games” in the crevasses but finally we arrive safe.







Aiguille du Midi, definitely is our second home. We go up again but this time to climb the “Pointe Lachenal”. I really love crack climbing and this route is an incredible pure crack granit climbing opened by the Vogler’s brothers, called “L’orée du bois” with the supercatalonian variaton ;-)
The storm is really near to catch us but we escape at the right moment.



One day more and we come back again to the “Cosmiques” arête but this time (for me) will be the rest day but for my partner will be the “Digital Crack”’s day. What I have a problem because somebody has stolen my shoelaces!
We have to wait to buy them in the shop and then fast and light up to the Aiguille du Midi. Tim, my crazy british friend tries three times the “Digital crack” but is too hard for his fingers and finish the journey asking himself “Where’s the crack?”.







We move to the Torino hut and the last day we climb up to the Capucin, the most beautiful summit I have ever done here, in Chamonix by the “Voyage selon Gulliver”. We loose the cable car and we have to spend one more night in the hut of Torino. I don’t understant why some people describes it like a prison. In my eyes it’s really confortable, more than bivouacs!, perfect to rest and prepare for the last hard day, the party day!