After a long wait in the airport finally it seems somebody is still alive. In fact I started to speak about the taxi bus who drives from Geneva to Chamonix because nobody is here, nobody is in the phone… and maybe my friends forget I’m here!
TMA again but this is the last one, what a pitty! Fred thinks I’m kidding when I suggest him if its possible to continue. Well, anyway we have to give the others the opportunity to live in The Mountain Academy.
When we arrive to the camping there is most of the team. It’s good to meet all the people again, and also to meet new ones, Fred from Chamonix and Simon from Zermatt. But the best is to be here, in “the Meca” of alpinism. Chamonix, yeah!
We start with the Hyper classic “Frison Roche”. My references about this route came from my girlfriend who climbed it some years ago. It’s a wonderful route who climbs the 200 meteres wall of “le Brevent”, a great line opened not many years ago. The ambience is superb, we are involved with the fog and it seems Patagonia.
We have a very good description here.
The next step goes to discover the old ice in a very deep unknow glacier, I can’t say more things, we have to keep a little bit safe the secrets of The Mountain Academy…
We continue with the “Triangle du Tacul” climbing one beautiful thin white line on the left of “Goulotte cheré” to finish, the day after, by the “Cosmiques” arête. I have been here before 7 times but after this moment I have never climbed the “Cosmiques” before. So for me it’s incredible to find artificial holes for crampons made by… who knows? Anyway, we discover why is one of the most famous ridges in the Alps. Simply magnificent.
Good info here.
One more step goes to the “Albert Premier” hut and the Forbes ridge, a beautiful way to reach the top of the Chardonnet. It’s a special ascent, more special if you think you are following the Rebuffat’s selection and if you can join with some of your friends in the summit. In the descend some stupid “games” in the crevasses but finally we arrive safe.
Aiguille du Midi, definitely is our second home. We go up again but this time to climb the “Pointe Lachenal”. I really love crack climbing and this route is an incredible pure crack granit climbing opened by the Vogler’s brothers, called “L’orée du bois” with the supercatalonian variaton ;-)
The storm is really near to catch us but we escape at the right moment.
One day more and we come back again to the “Cosmiques” arête but this time (for me) will be the rest day but for my partner will be the “Digital Crack”’s day. What I have a problem because somebody has stolen my shoelaces!
We have to wait to buy them in the shop and then fast and light up to the Aiguille du Midi. Tim, my crazy british friend tries three times the “Digital crack” but is too hard for his fingers and finish the journey asking himself “Where’s the crack?”.
We move to the Torino hut and the last day we climb up to the Capucin, the most beautiful summit I have ever done here, in Chamonix by the “Voyage selon Gulliver”. We loose the cable car and we have to spend one more night in the hut of Torino. I don’t understant why some people describes it like a prison. In my eyes it’s really confortable, more than bivouacs!, perfect to rest and prepare for the last hard day, the party day!
No comments:
Post a Comment