Friday, September 4, 2009

Long summer - still student

Hmm... Yeap - two months passed from Champs, and me still didn't finish with one last exam. Wonder why? Let's analize...


Was July. Just after arrive from snowy Mont Blanc chain, my friends called me for rocky faces in Julian Alps. Peak's name is Špik, and route was very obvious - Direct, V+ 900m. This route has very important history in slovenian mountaineering - it was opened in far away 1926., by miss Mira Debelakova, and with this route, she entered in famous London Alpine Club...


It’s my favourite in this pyramid peak, since it is always very interesting to climb route opened by a lady...

Aproaching in late evening, after 7 hours of driving at mostly rainy day. Forecast predict good weather for tommorow... It would be a shame to spend so many hours in car, pass few borders, without climbing anything.


There is very nice bivouac at the bottom of Spik – nicest I ever seen, so 2 hours of walking to it, is very worthwhile.


A big route - I must admit, at few places I had in my mind - If I am in 1926, where would I pass... In general, after a half, when we changed a leading position ;), it was more easier... But!My previous rock climbing was in perfect yellow granite of Chamonix, and here rock is not so solid, it was hardest thing - to adapt on rock in mental way!


Dieadar at Direct route, Spik


At the top, I was happy, but, truetly... I expected more estetic climbing... Never mind, it will be now estetic going down-1600 m of descent and driving back home, since there are people who are working tommorow!


Was July. Few sunny days on Makarska riviera - Adriatic coast... Kayak - new favorite activity ;)

Was last days of July. My boyfriend got some free days from fresh job ;), so we packed a gear... Hm, a lot of gear (thanx to TMA :), since our plan was - we will do some sport climbing... and maybe some multipitch... and maybe some alpine... Luckily - we left our skies back home ;), and start very long way to Dolomite...

Mobile home - Wander of nature under walls of Tofana



And as we planned – sport climbing at Tolmezzo, just to break full driving day, and continue to Cortina D’Ampezzo... Next few days we spent at lovely Cinque Torre – needles not higher than 100 meteres, but very good start for vertical world of Dolomites! Was that grade 3 or 7 – it’s vertical – just matter of hold sizes ;)...


Cinque Torre



Then we changed this area, for Tofana face, where we climed more commiting route – Constantin-Ghedini, which has very nice line on the arete... Vertical! I don’t know have I ever climb so exposed big faces, but almost all the time I saw other parties beneath us, on the wall.


Constantin-Ghedini, Tofana



So many lovely place, so little time...



Next stop was famous Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Historical places, with extraordinary sights... We stayed there just for one day, (parking is not so cheap) and we climbed maybe not so hard route, but again, as all routes we chose – very classy J - Preuss crack at Picolissima! I remember then, Wilder Kaiser, and more of pioneers of „munich school“... And oh - boy... These people were really extraordinary, even for today.



Unlike Preuss, we descent on Dulfer couloar, but while we were climbing that huge chimney, we were discusing how crazy was Paul Preuss, when he downclimb every route he climbed, so as this! And there, I saw some routes opened by our guide from The Mountain Academy – Kurt Astner... He is definitly truely successor of mentioned pioneers!



Preuss crack, Cima Picolissima






Driving, driving... It was time for „new area“ even for Sinisa(for me, all these was new, but he was already here last summer, while I was at Wilder Kaiser). Val Gardena – valley high up in south Tyrol! Before this trip, we didn’t know lot of thing about Gardena(at the end, we can’t know everything ;), and now, I’m thinking of selling some organ at black market :), and go there for improve skiing! For climbing – was interesting ;). We climbed at Sella, and conclusion is - Very crowded, very crowded, very polished... I saw more than 15 people in 300meters route! Luckily, we were almost alone in III Torre Sella, Vinatzer route. All routes are very classic, and no wonder why are tyrolean people great climbers...



Sella - almost all Torres


And, from Sella Pass... You can see HER ;). Just look to south, where sun tries to hide away until next day...Dream of this trip. People gave her different names, but all mean same – Regina, Queen, Marmolada!


Marmolada


To be, or not to be? We moved from monden Gardena to lovely campsite at Malga Ciapela, where birds singing in toailets, really!Weather was not so great last days(since we arrived to Italy J ), it was raining every day – it was just matter of quantity... And we were not sure is it good time to go to South face of Marmolada. But, in 2-3 days we should be back in Belgrade...


Decided to go to Refuge Falier... It was so cloudy, we saw face only at few moments, enough to realise it’s huge ;). Waking up early in the morning, poor(?!) breakfast in hut, and sea of clouds beneath us, in valley. Similiar situation was above us, we decided to go more near the rock, at the enter of our route - Don Quixote. Weather forecast was ok for that day, until afternoon, when it should start bad weather. This time, unlike in Aig. Du Diablo, I wasn’t with lot of guides, who can help me by making their own decision in moments like this. Just Sinisa and me, at the bottom of south face of Marmolada.


Will weather be really better with the time, or this cloud will stay here forever?!


My thoughts at that time were – Ok, haven’t seen the whole route while we approaching, haven’t seen either that big ledge, haven’t seen far then 50 meteres above me... Enough HAVEN’T for brand new mountain! Sinisa had more faith in forecast...


We found the enter, and then we notice more people are coming in our direction. Ok, we are not the only ones, it can have some good sides...To go, or not? Hm, at least first part of the route is not so hard, and in case of „not better“ forecast, we can maybe retreat? I never climbed unknown rock in fog, and my (leading) part of the route was first half, up to big ledge.


I was quite a nervous at the start, yet 2 more parties were here, with us, and all time I checked at topo, it looked we are on very good way. Austrian party passed us very fast, and they were crazy – noise&fast people ;), and with the polish people we stayed up to top.









On the beginnig...With lot of ropes...



Big ledge. Still fog, but with prediction it will end up soon ;)...

"Pocket wall"

Now, it’s starting true climbing! Doesn’t go under grade 5 up to the end, even in some guidebooks says different... Again, vertical world in full color! Sinisa is progressing quite good, and me – catch the moment to make some photos ;).

It’s all about endurance here... Crux – very well protected, and from this moment, clouds dissapeared, we saw nice blue sky and never ending rock face ;).

Unfortunatly, haven’t see most famous route here – Durch den Fisch,9-, which was freesoloed by very young Hansjörg Auer. Believe me – I had strange feeling in my stomach, just when I saw his poster in refuge...


16h. Last gondole is passing by... And we are on the top! Like true climbers ;) we are the only ones who are going down by glacier(not by cable car ;), but it’s great weather, we are running on snow, so it’s cool...


When I spoke with Tito, he said – „ I climbed just Don Quixote in Marmolada, but you know, it’s nothing...“ Comparing with other routes, it is one of the easiest, but it’s far away of nothing! At least for me ;)... While we walking down, Sinisa was satisfied, and start speaking about Tiempo Moderne... Me... Happy and quite ;)!

Ps.We ate very good carbonara at Passo Fedeia, for all „cable car“ money ;)... And back far away to the east...


August. Start studying tommorow... Just to finish with this chapter in guidebook. Just to become pro- at bicy ;).


September. I started. Exam soon. Just to finish this article. And one about Du Diable. And...

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