Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Taghia - our comming "expedition"

Marokko in april.
First it remembered me on great firn skitours in the high mountains of Marokko, firn built by the African sun, it must be fantastic surfing down the slushy snow...
But than, awake from my dreams, I realized we will go for climbing. Climbing in an amazing huge playground where only few routes have opened. A narrow gorges with steep walls on the right and left where solid limestone promise nice climbs. It sounds superb, but there is one point that makes me a bit nervous: the grade, the difficulties of the routes!
When I was searching the internet for information I only could find hard routes. In fact, most of the existing routes start up from 7a, many elite and professional climbers went there to find a playground for trying lots of first ascents and enjoying the solid browne rock under the african sun. Therefore I guess a multiplicity of hard routes.
Ok, someone could answer I have to train my strength, endurance, climbing technique and mental performance, but the time melts away! Not later than 2 month I will sit in plane towards Marrakech... my heart misgives me!!!
Since I started climbing my aim was climbing grade 7a in lead with bolts, I thought this grade would be achievable for me soon, but than I realized it's not always possible to keep this level the year round. In autumn I start with bouldering at my home gym, totally motivated and fanatic, sometimes I went 3 or 4 times in the week. You become soon very strong and you will improve your technique, but than in December when the skitouring and freeriding season start bouldering gives way to ski. The fresh fluffy snow I'm totally keen on to surf down. My endurance gets stronger, the spring comes and the long high firn tours prompt me to stand up early the morning. Sometimes you already back at midday and you go for some climbing in your home crag hanging around in the sun and reminisce about the day. In March and April when the weatherforecast announce "Nord-Föhn", we take a 2 hours drive to Arco to start with the first multipitch-routes for the season. But you exactly know from last year: take you time! Every movement on the rock is slow, searching for good holds, you don't trust your feet on the slabs, all the rope techniques and so on. But after 20 pitches the week-end you feel much more comfortable and from this point climbing comes into the center of interesst.
So now, it's february and still time for freeriding, skitouring and few iceclimbs. First rock contact is planed for March, this would mean 1 month left at the most to become prepared for Taghia in Marokko. A desaster!!!
But we will see, maybe I find Aladins' wonderlamp and I can wish for me the strongest arms and mind I never had to be prepared for our comming "expedition" outside Europe.

For those who are able to read and understand German, the DAV Freewall team was 2005 in Taghia. See their report below:
http://cms.alpenverein.de/download_file.php?getit=1&session_id=4r5s5752qaitojq05co83k8ppn0jjch1&showfile=1


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