To get an idea of the caliber that he armed his two ice axes, just an example, in the north face of Grandes Jorasses (one of the most beautiful north faces of the world) he has climbed routes like the Walker Spur, the Croz spur, the Shroud, the McIntyr-Colton, the Bonatti-Vaucher or the Desmaison route... ¡Almost nothing!
Since then and forever and ever, definitely, we call him "The Lord of the Jorasses ".
The case is his company encouraged us to drive our van to the parking of "Viollins". We had the idea to climb a variant of “Viollins”, one of the most famous ice climbing in the valley. To encourage us a bit more we were warned that the stalactite wasn’t stable, so, it wasn’t formed to the base...
“¡Perfect! "How nice! ¡jeux du cirque!, ¡alé…!”.
Fortunately, the main objective of this concentration was to improve our ice technique... ¡Come on to improve! But in the tactical aspect we managed all the logistic details very well. For example, we divided the route in three parts and in this order: Tito, Neil and me. Of course, the crux was for the father of the idea: “Lord Jorasses”. One wise man climber said me that If you want to enjoy with hard climbs left the harder pitches to your friends. We applied the lesson and was the best option because Neil is the master of the ice and it’s a pleasure to contemplate a very good climber dancing with the overhanging.
The difficult of the route is still waiting for the repetitions, but it’s too hard to stay more than 1 minutes in each movement.
Amazing climbing with very good guys, amazing week with The Mountain Academy team.
No comments:
Post a Comment